Development of IDM is highly influenced by the weather, as it is a water mold that requires moisture to cause new infections. Wet foliage, cool temperatures (especially at night) and moist air are the ideal conditions for disease development. Plants in densely planted beds, heavily shaded areas or where their leaves stay wet for extended periods of time will generally have a higher incidence and severity of the disease.

The first sign of IDM is leaves that are slightly yellow or off-color. As the disease progresses, the undersides of the leaves will have white-colored, powdery-like spores. Eventually the leaves and flowers will drop off of the plant, leaving stems with only a few tiny, yellow leaves remaining. IDM can be spread long distances by wind currents, water splash (overhead irrigation included) or by the movement of infected plants.

Infected plants should be pulled, bagged and disposed of; never composted! It is expected that IDM will be a recurring problem, as its spores overwinter in the soil and can infect impatiens planted next year.

Remember the disease triangle: a susceptible host, the presence of a pathogen and certain environmental conditions are needed for the disease to develop. Infected areas should not be replanted with impatiens, but can be replanted with other plants. This could be a great opportunity to experiment with new plants and expand your gardening knowledge! Shade annual plants like New Guinea impatiens, torenia, lobelia, and other annuals with colorful foliage such as caladium, begonias, coleus, and hypoestes are safe to reset in affected areas.

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The wording of the proclamation is as follows:

“Whereas The healthy plants of both traditional and urban agriculture benefit the people and the environment of the Commonwealth and; Whereas Healthy turfgrass serves as a sequester of carbons from our atmosphere, while providing effective and affordable erosion control and; Whereas Turfgrass aids in heat and noise abatement, fire prevention and storm water abatement and; Whereas Turfgrass also aids in the fight against asthma and other particulate borne illnesses in humans by capturing airborne particles such as dust and sand and; Whereas Healthy turfgrass provides natural playing surfaces for healthful recreation by all citizens in every community in the Commonwealth and; Whereas Healthy turfgrass enhances landscapes designed by man and nature, offering both serene and peaceful outdoor space; I, Deval Patrick, Governor of the Commonwealth proclaim April 2013 to be LAWN CARE MONTH and urge the citizens of the Commonwealth to take cognizance of this event and participate fittingly in its observance.”

The good news: spring is finally here! The bad news: most lawns suffered some damage over the harsh winter months and will be in need of repair. When forsythia are in bloom in mid-April is the perfect time to reseed your lawn and to start your annual fertilization program! It’s also the perfect time to apply a pre-emergent weed control to prevent overwintered crabgrass and other pesky weed seeds from ever germinating. Lastly, in New England, it’s always a good idea to condition your soil to support healthy turfgrass by raising its pH and fertilizing with calcium.

Give us a call or stop by the Nursery for timely lawn care advice and products or information regarding our Organic Lawn Program!

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8 Great Tips for Seed Starting Success!

1. Fresh Is Best. Always start with fresh, high quality organic seeds, we recommend New England Seed.

2. Use an Organic Potting Mix. We recommend Espoma Organic Seed Starter which ensures that you have a lightweight, clean and sterile medium free of insects, fungus and weeds.

3. Packets Know Best. Plant your seeds according to the depth and spacing directions on the seed packet. Cover the seeds with soil mix and tamp down gently to ensure that the seeds are held in firm contact with the soil.

4. Bottom’s Up. It’s best to water from the bottom. Place a planting container with holes into a larger pan of shallow water for a short time to make sure the potting mix doesn’t dry out.

5. Take Cover. Loosely cover your planting container with plastic wrap to retain moisture after watering. Check the moisture daily and watch for germination. Remove the plastic wrap as soon as the seeds germinate.

6. Stay Warm. For most seeds, sprouting requires a minimum temperature of 65° to 75°F and 12 to 16 hours of sunlight each day. Place your seed containers in a sunny location such as a window with southern exposure. Once the seeds sprout, turn the container a little each day to prevent seedlings from overreaching in one direction toward the light.

7. The Need to Feed. Don’t use fertilizer on seedlings until they have sprouted! In the very early growth stage, the seed provides its own nourishment. Once leaves develop, it’s time for some organic fertilizer, we recommend Neptune’s Harvest or Dr. Earth Liquid Solution.

8. Harden Them Off. Your sheltered seedlings need to get ready for the outdoors. Prior to planting, place your plants outside a few hours each day for about a week to increase their exposure to sunlight and wind. Cut back on watering a bit, too. Your plants will become heartier and better prepared for transplanting outdoors.

Start seeds 4 to 6 weeks before you hope to plant them in the garden. Cool season crops like broccoli and lettuce can go into the garden before the last frost. Warm season crops like tomatoes and peppers should not be planted until the danger of frost is past, usually Memorial Day. Lastly, look forward to enjoying the fruits (or flowers or veggies) of your labor later in the season!

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Regardless of the type of damage, our advice is the same: think about each tree, branch and situation individually…

Is more than 1/2 of the tree damaged or broken? If yes, it is best to remove and replace it or consider a new use for the space. Sometimes, storms and their resulting damage reveal new opportunities for change that we wouldn’t have considered otherwise. Mother Nature has a way of taking out weak growth and vulnerable branches. Trust that maybe what is gone should be, and that maybe this can help you explore new possibilities.

If only a few branches, tips or parts are broken, start by making a clean, downward facing cut below the end of the damaged piece. Step back and assess the new shape and appearance. Keep in mind that there is an entire growing season on its way… with leaves and blossoms on the tree, the overall shape may be different but not necessarily unattractive! Losing branches opens up the canopy and allows more light to enter the crown of the tree. With more light, new growth will spring out from the center, creating a bushier tree overall. With larger, woody trees, this may take more than one season.

Too much work to do yourself? Dull tools? Plain old not enough time?

We are happy to come and do an assessment and can remove damaged plants and fallen material from your property. Want more? We can make ornamental tree care part of a spring clean up of your property. We will clear debris, create clean edges and mulch your beds. Please give us a call to set up a courtesy consultation so we can help you with your specific needs!

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1. Top-dress your planting beds with NutriMulch. You will see a big difference in the growth of your plants if you apply our compost/aged bark mulch blend to your beds both in the spring and the fall. Adding organic content to your beds in the fall gives the compost time to be incorporated into the soil over the winter. When plants begin their spring growth, they have access to good, rich soil.
2. Apply fall fertilizer to your lawn. Fall fertilization is best because the lawn has passed through the stressful summer months and needs food to rebuild itself and prepare for the winter. Nutrients are required to take full advantage of the cool weather growth period to restore the lawn to full health. Fertilizing with an organic slow-release fertilizer like Dr. Earth’s Super Natural Lawn Fertilizer now helps grass develop a thick and deep root system, so it can better survive next summer’s heat.
3. Create a bird friendly backyard by providing a safe refueling spot to migrating birds. Hang a feeder with nutritious foods high in oil and fat such as sunflower seeds, nuts and peanut butter. These foods give the birds energy to migrate or to survive the dropping temperatures if they stay in the area year-round. If you can, don’t cut down the plants that provide winter snacks for birds, such as the seed heads of coneflowers and black-eyed Susan’s.
4. Properly watering the plants in the fall can be an effective means of minimizing injury to trees and shrubs during the winter. The winter damage to which trees and shrubs are susceptible often stems from their inability to draw water from the frozen ground. Trees and shrubs should be watered deeply in the fall before the ground freezes, so water can reach the roots.
5. Apply an Anti-Desiccant to your evergreens. Wilt-Pruf protects evergreens, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, hollies, boxwood, laurel, when under water stress – by reducing moisture loss through foliage. It protects against cold drying winds of winter and protects plants when roots are frozen in the winter depriving them of their normal moisture intake.
6. If you let your houseplants “vacation” on your back deck this summer, then it’s time to move them back inside. Because sudden changes in temperature, light, and humidity can be traumatic to plants, a gradual reintroduction to the indoors is best. Check to make sure if they need to be repotted – it is cleaner if done outside rather than in!
7. Plant a tree. Money actually does grow on trees! The Us Forest Service estimates that over a typical 50-year lifespan, an average tree can produce up to $125,000 in benefits to the environment alone.  Planting a tree within 50 feet of a residence can increase its value by 9%. The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the fall after leaf drop or early spring before bud break. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth.
8. Pat yourself on the back for a job well this gardening year. Curl up before a roaring

Thayer Nursery Kiln-Dried Firewood fire with plant catalogues and the promise of the arrival of spring.

For everything, there is a season. Keep this in mind, and enjoy this fall season.

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We gardeners are a special breed and cultivating and caring for plants is one of the most gratifying ways we spend our time. We know that a well-maintained garden, even if it is indoors, is its own reward. Growing herbs on a windowsill is a great way to keep you well supplied all season long.  Fresh herbs are easy to grow and your cooking will taste so much better than using dried ones.

The essential elements that are needed for indoor gardening are plenty of direct light, good drainage and proper fertilization.

Light is the biggest factor when growing herbs so you’ll want to place them in a sunny window. Choose a window that provides the most replace the natural sunlight. hours of direct sunlight per day.  If your home does not have adequate light then find a spot near a wall outlet and use a grow lamp to replace the natural sunlight.

Refrain from getting soil from your back yard. Use only organic soils that contain Beneficial Microbes and Mycorrhizae. They are specialized fungi that collect on plant roots and extend far into the soil. They assist in nutrient and water absorption thus improving the plant’s performance and vigor following planting and transplanting.

Nothing is better for blooming flowers or ripening fruits than our pure, high-phosphorus Dr. Earth Bat Guano. It is most effectively used at the root zone to heighten root and flower development. You can amend your soil with it, use it as a top dressing or create a “guano tea” and apply it directly to your plant roots as a soil drench.

When it comes time to watering your herbs, don’t do it on a set schedule. Instead, use your fingers to check soil moisture. If your heat is turned up in your house then your plants may need water more often. Keep your herbs pinched back and trimmed. When you use your herbs regularly you will see the plants branch out and become bushy.

The art of growing herbs indoors can be challenging but all you need to do is to discover their individual needs and replicate the right environment inside your home. Indoor herbs may never reach their optimum size and may not have the exact same flavor as if they were grown outside (they need sun to produce their essential oils which give them flavor), but you can still have fun experimenting. We hope that the seed of interest planted now, will blossom into a life-long interest in horticulture.

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Remember, this isn’t brain surgery –- have fun and experiment. Whatever your lifestyle or personality you can make container gardens that will make you happy and bring beauty to your surroundings.

- By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

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The following ‘Eight Great’ tips and techniques will help to produce a delightful butterfly garden in your own backyard.

• Location, Location, Location: Locate the garden in a sunny area. Butterflies and most butterfly-attracting plants require bright sunshine.
• Plant Nectar-Promising Flowers: Butterflies visit flowers in search of nectar. Many native butterflies prefer purple, yellow, orange and red blossoms. Clusters of tubular flowers or flat-topped blossoms provide the ideal shapes for butterflies to easily land and feed.
• Select Single Flowers: The nectar of single flowers is more accessible and easier for butterflies to extract than the nectar of double flowers which have more petals per flower.
• Plant Large Splashes of Color: Butterflies are first attracted to flowers by their color. A larger swath of color is easier for butterflies to locate than isolated plants.
• Plant for Continuous Bloom: Butterflies are active from early spring until late fall. Plant a selection of flowers that will provide nectar throughout the entire season.
• Include Host Plants: Host plants provide food for caterpillars and lure female butterflies into the garden to lay eggs.
• Include Shallow Puddles: Some butterflies drink and extract salts from moist soils. Occasionally, male butterflies form a ‘puddle club’ around a moist drinking area.
• Set Flat Stones: Butterflies often perch on stones or vegetation and spread their wings to bask in the sun. This raises their body temperatures so they are able to fly and remain active.

Butterflies depend on plants in many ways. The most successful gardens include plants which meet the needs of butterflies during all four stages of their life cycle: egg, caterpillar, chrysalis and adult. Do not use pesticides in or near a butterfly garden. Most traditional garden pesticides are toxic to butterflies. A garden designed with this in mind attracts the largest number and greatest variety of butterfly visitors!

- By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

Butterfly Nectar Sources

Annuals:

• Ageratum
• Cosmos
• Lantana
• Marigold
• Nicotiana
• Petunia
• Sunflower
• Verbena

Shrubs & Trees:

• Abelia
• Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)
• Birch
• Caryopteris
• Clethra
• Cherry
• Cornus (Dogwood)
• Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon)
• Honeysuckle
• Lilac
• Privet
• Tulip Tree
• Viburnum (fragrant varieties)

Perennials:

• Aster
• Achillea (Yarrow)
• Allium
• Asclepias (Butterfly Weed)
• Carex (Sedge)
• Chelone
• Coreopsis
• Daylily
• Delphinium
• Dianthus
• Echinacea
• Eupatorium (joe pye weed)
• Gailardia
• Helianthus
• Liatris
• Lavender
• Monarda (Bee Balm)
• Nepeta (cat mint)
• Ornamental Grasses
• Phlox
• Rudbekia (black eyed susan)
• Shasta Daisy

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The Milton Times’ Best in Milton contest is underway, and we are asking for the participation of our customers. Votes for Milton businesses must be received by Thursday February 9 and can be sent to bestinmilton@aol.com

In years past, we have been mentioned for Best Event (for our Holiday Boutique), Best Landscaping Service, Best Gift Shop, and Best Overall Store. You do not have to be a Milton resident in order to participate, just a customer. We are grateful for your business and encourage your participation.

We hope that your New Year has been fulfilling thus far and continues to be full of opportunity! We look forward to growing with you again this season!

Thank you for your continued support,
John Prettyman Thayer Nursery

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Some sources attribute the rumor about the dangers of poinsettia leaves to a case of poisoning in 1919 that led to the death of a two year-old child. At the time, the cause of the poisoning was incorrectly determined to be a poinsettia leaf.

According to the POISINDEX information source – the primary resource used by the majority of poison control centers nationwide – a child who weighed 50 lbs. would have to eat over 500 poinsettia leaves to reach an even potentially toxic dose of compounds in the poinsettia plant. Doctors at the Children’s Hospital of Pittsburgh and the Pittsburgh Poison Center conducted a review of 22,793 reported cases of poinsettia exposures, the majority (93%) of which occurred in children, and found that 92% of those exposed did not develop any symptoms at all. Ninety-six per cent of those exposed were not even treated in a health care facility. Furthermore, no deaths resulting from poinsettia ingestion have ever been documented.

Even though accidental ingestion of poinsettia leaves will not damage your body or kill you, it may lead to nausea and vomiting in some cases. Since the taste of poinsettia leaves is reportedly very unpleasant, it is unlikely that a child or animal who attempts to eat or chew the leaves will continue to do so after the first taste.

While ingestion of house plants is never a good idea (some popular plants can be extremely dangerous when eaten) parents of young children can be assured that the poinsettia plant is not a dangerous risk in the home.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

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